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Lifestyle/Valley Scene


Wednesday, May 28, 2008

History by the bottle: Vintner's ancestor one of first valley winemakers


Seth Chambers and Louis Papadopoulos bottle the first wine at the new Phillip Carter Winery in Hume. Dennis Grundman/Daily


Philip Carter Strother holds the first bottle, a red table wine, Sweet Danielle, which he named for his wife. Dennis Grundman/Daily

By Jessica Coleman -- Daily Staff Writer

HUME — History is repeating itself at Philip Carter Winery, formerly Stillhouse Vineyards, where a descendant of the man who is said to have produced the first internationally recognized fine wines is looking to carry on the family tradition.

Philip Carter Strother, owner of the 27-acre vineyard, is related to Charles Carter, one of the first successful Virginia winemakers. According to a winery brochure: "Before Jefferson, there was Carter." In 1762, Carter was recognized by the London Society for the Encouragement of the Arts, Manufacture and Commerce for being the first person to make a "spirited attempt towards the accomplishment of their views, respecting wine in America."

Strother, a lawyer with offices in Richmond, Loudoun, Fauquier and Fluvanna counties, said he believes the connection to the past is important not only for his business, but for the Virginia wine industry as a whole.

"As California grew to prominence, the fact that Virginia has this rich history [of wine-making] was forgotten," he said.

Strother said he had been interested in the property for about a year, but did not complete the sale until February. He said he learned a great deal from the former owners of the vineyard.

"My interest continued to grow, and I began to work with them," Strother said. "Throughout the fall I shadowed them and worked with them."

More than 200 years after Carter's efforts, Strother said he hopes to have the same good fortune as his ancestor. The brochure calls the Carters the "first family of American wine." The winery will eventually boast several varieties of wine, but so far only two have been bottled. On May 19, a chambourcin and a red table wine were packaged for sale. Another bottling will be held in June, when the remaining wines will be bottled, Strother said.

The red table wine is called Sweet Danielle, named after Strother's wife, who was unaware of the honor until very recently. Strother said he planned to take her to a nice dinner in Richmond last week to have the first bottle of the wine presented to her at the table. The label even boasts a picture of her.

"There's a sense of friendship and family that brings outsiders into the fold," said Donna Johnson, tasting room manager and events coordinator. "The family is just all a part of it. They bring you into it and you feel connected."

Strother's father-in-law, Richard Zweber, is director of sales and operations for the winery. He said he is very proud of his son-in-law's accomplishments, and he also agrees that the historical aspects of the winery are a draw.

"When you're in the wine country, you want to taste good wines, but the experience is equally important," Zweber said. "And Virginians like history."

"I'm hoping the quality of our wines will enhance the experience people have when they come to Virginia wineries," Strother added. "I hope they will enjoy the experience and discover the history."

Strother said he hopes to add to the community of wineries in the area, rather than rival them. The first weekend in May, the winery held its first planting under its new name. Like his ancestor, Strother planted 1,800 grapevines on nine acres.

"The crop is really fantastic," Strother said. "We've spent considerable time in the vineyards working on the quality of the vines themselves."

Holding true to the company's respect for history and the area, a white table wine, called Falconwood, will be produced at a later bottling; its label will depict a painting of the Northern Piedmont. The painting will be changed each year, and a certain percentage of the sales will go to a charity in Fauquier County, Strother said.

Recently the vineyard held a grand re-naming open house to celebrate the new winery. There was wine, live music, food, entertainment for children, and Thomas Jefferson and Charles Carter reenactors.

Looking out over the rolling acres of grapevines, with a bottle of red wine in his hands, Strother seems perfectly at home taking up where his ancestors left off.

"It's a little piece of heaven here," he said. "It's paradise."

For more information about Philip Carter Winery, call 634-1203 or visit the Web site at www.pcwinery.com.

  • Contact Jessica Coleman at jcoleman@nvdaily.com

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